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Old 12-31-2013, 11:07   #1
attrapereves
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First squib

Had my first squib ever today with my Glock 21. I was shooting 230gr FMJ using VV N320. I fired the round and it felt a little light. The next round would not chamber fully. After taking the gun apart, I noticed the bullet near the chamber.

How do I remove the stuck bullet? I should I try to push it out the chamber end since it's so close?

I'm a little concerned as I'm very careful to charge each case. Would a case with as little as 1gr of powder cause the bullet to travel so little? I was thinking something happened with the brass, but I inspected all of it and saw no deformities.

Reloading
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:13   #2
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Wooden or plastic rod and a hammer. Smack it back out via the chamber. They make specifc squib rods made of hard plastic.

A primer and no charge is the most likely cause of a squib and probably what you had.

Should have felt very light. More of a pfft than a bang is my experience with squibs.

Last edited by Jon_R; 12-31-2013 at 11:15..
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:20   #3
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Welcome to the club just get a wood dowel and pound the bullet out. You are lucky that you couldn't chamber the next round. Took me many years before I had mine and did just what I had been taught "slap rack BOOM. Cost about $265 to replace the barrel and Kimber found cracks in the frame so they gave me a new one free of charge. This was a
CDP and had about 20K rounds of my cast 200 pushed by 5.2 W231. Funny at he time
(just before the explosion ) I was proud how quickly I had cleared the malfunction.
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:25   #4
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Had 1 in my 1st batch of reloads. Mine went just far enough to be able to chamber the next round. Luckily I didn't pull the tigger.
Go to the hardware and get oak dowel rod the closest they have to the barrel size. Cut it off so it's just longer than the barrel. Put barrel on another piece of wood. Use a rubber mallet.
It took a little while but mine came out.

Thinking of what could happen with 1 of these scares the crap out of you
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:34   #5
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With it being stuck in the throat, I would guess no powder at all.


Yes, pound it out the chamber end...
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:40   #6
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A squib tool for your range bag:
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...tion_Squib_Rod

Richard
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:40   #7
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Brass rod is best. I have had wood splinter and not move the bullet.
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:42   #8
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What I keep in my range bag for matches. Have used it many times for many people.


Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
A squib tool for your range bag:
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...tion_Squib_Rod

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Old 12-31-2013, 11:53   #9
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It also helps to spray some WD-40 down the barrel and let it sit for a couple of minutes before trying to tap the bullet out. I have an old style GI cleaned rod that I use. It took me 50 years before I had one.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:27   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attrapereves View Post

I'm a little concerned as I'm very careful to charge each case. Would a case with as little as 1gr of powder cause the bullet to travel so little? I was thinking something happened with the brass, but I inspected all of it and saw no deformities.]
That was a Primer only event.

What is your reloading process? SS with loading blocks, Progressive? What kind?
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Old 12-31-2013, 13:25   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
That was a Primer only event.

What is your reloading process? SS with loading blocks, Progressive? What kind?
Single stage with a loading block. I'm guessing I missed a case.
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Old 12-31-2013, 13:53   #12
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Yep, I was just posting in another thread I don't like loading blocks for this very reason.
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Old 12-31-2013, 14:46   #13
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When I was loading on a SS I had two loading blocks. One was white and one was red. I put the sized, primed, and belled case in the white block mouth down. When I charged the case it went into the red block. When the block was full I then using a magnifying lamp and checked going up and down each row making sure they were charged and all the powder looked to be at the same height. Once satisfied that everything looked right, I put the case in the press also on the way to the press looking inside the case for powder. Add the bullet then seat the bullet.
If it was rifle rounds I would do the same thing and if I could not look inside the charged case for powder. I had a wooden rod that was marked at the right height for the powder that was in the case I would then check each case while it was in the red loading block. Rifle rounds I would start the bullet into the case lower the ram rotate the case then seat a little more lower the ram rotate again then finish seating the bullet. That helps in getting a better 0 run out on the bullet.
Never had a squib or a double charge doing it that way.
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Old 12-31-2013, 14:53   #14
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Brass is best. A jacketed bullet is harder to knock out than you might expect.
Penetrating oil is good unless you need to punch it out Right Now to get back in a match.

That near the chamber, probably a primer only.
One grain will get a jacketed bullet farther down the barrel, and will likely blow a lead bullet out the muzzle.

I stuck two bullets this year, first in 40 years of trying.
Both had powder. One had been wetted - ammo is not as waterproof as some would have you think - and the other was an OAL mismatch, too much airspace for the primer flash to reach across with the powder down near the bullet.
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Old 12-31-2013, 15:30   #15
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I was looking over at McMaster-Carr and they have some bronze rod (I think this will work better than brass) and it comes in 12" lengths (and longer).

I'm thinking that three of these might work. I haven't done the math but it would seem like 5/16" might work for 9mm, 3/8" might work for .40 and 7/16" might work for .45 ACP.

I was looking at Alloy 544 - High Strength Bearing Grade Bronze:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#bronze-alloy-rods/=q1vx3l

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Last edited by F106 Fan; 12-31-2013 at 15:31..
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Old 12-31-2013, 16:28   #16
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1/4 Inch Brass rod is all you need.
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Old 12-31-2013, 16:36   #17
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As Jack suggested, I now keep my BP short starter in my range bag. Free squib rod.


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire
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Old 12-31-2013, 16:37   #18
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just ordered a 5/16, figured it would work for 9,10, and 45.
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Old 12-31-2013, 16:39   #19
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Welcome to the club. N320 is my favorite powder for .45 ACP target loads. Dreamy stuff.


Look on the bright side, it is substantially better than a double.


Sometimes the bullets pound out easy, sometimes it is a real pain. The only generalization is jacketed is usually tougher than lead. I have used wood dowels on both, but have always ended up going through more than one wood dowel if it is jacketed and stuck pretty fast.


As mentioned earlier, a little lube seems to help with jacketed.


Stick with it and you will get it out. Probably be a while before you do it again.

Last edited by WeeWilly; 12-31-2013 at 16:41..
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Old 12-31-2013, 16:53   #20
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Didn't have a brass rod or a dowel that was the correct size. I found a long bolt and wrapped it in cloth and electrical tape. Worked like a charm.

For those interested. I am using 5.2gr of N320 with a 230gr FMJ pill. I don't have a chrony, but they seem light compared to factory and other powder reloads I've done. The brass was landing almost on top of the gun. I'd imagine velocity is less than 800fps, but 5.2 is max according to VV data.
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Old 12-31-2013, 17:04   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attrapereves View Post
Didn't have a brass rod or a dowel that was the correct size. I found a long bolt and wrapped it in cloth and electrical tape. Worked like a charm.

For those interested. I am using 5.2gr of N320 with a 230gr FMJ pill. I don't have a chrony, but they seem light compared to factory and other powder reloads I've done. The brass was landing almost on top of the gun. I'd imagine velocity is less than 800fps, but 5.2 is max according to VV data.
might try a lighter spring. I use a 13# in my G20 with my light loads. some folks don't agree with it, and believe only to run the stock springs. I have had zero reliability issues at USPSA and IDPA matches along with general practice with the lighter springs.

hopefully you remember the sound and feel of the squib as it might happen again; next time you'll know what happened right away.
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Old 12-31-2013, 18:11   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attrapereves View Post
Didn't have a brass rod or a dowel that was the correct size. I found a long bolt and wrapped it in cloth and electrical tape. Worked like a charm.

For those interested. I am using 5.2gr of N320 with a 230gr FMJ pill. I don't have a chrony, but they seem light compared to factory and other powder reloads I've done. The brass was landing almost on top of the gun. I'd imagine velocity is less than 800fps, but 5.2 is max according to VV data.

Strange, I load 5.1gr of N320 under a 200gr LSWC and get about 900fps, excellent accuracy and normal recoil slide action. Not a heavy .45 Super feel, but certainly not brass trickling out of the slide. (out of a Gov't. 1911)


Some of the VV data is hopelessly off (like N105) in some calibers, but I found the N320, N340, N350 and 3N37 in 9 and 45 pretty good.

Last edited by WeeWilly; 12-31-2013 at 18:12..
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Old 12-31-2013, 18:56   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeWilly View Post
Strange, I load 5.1gr of N320 under a 200gr LSWC and get about 900fps, excellent accuracy and normal recoil slide action. Not a heavy .45 Super feel, but certainly not brass trickling out of the slide. (out of a Gov't. 1911)


Some of the VV data is hopelessly off (like N105) in some calibers, but I found the N320, N340, N350 and 3N37 in 9 and 45 pretty good.
I recently just started using this powder. I'll pump through some more next range trip. It might just be me.
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Old 01-01-2014, 00:12   #24
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I recently just started using this powder. I'll pump through some more next range trip. It might just be me.
N320 loads on he fast side, that is why it is prized for target loads in 45 ACP. It is my favorite ahed of Bullseye, as it loads very similar, but produces lower SD's and burns cleaner.

You won't be able to get the velocity you can with a similar bullet when using a slower powder (like N340 or N350), but the higher velocities just mean more muzzle rise and those powders need higher load density to get the same consistency.

For target work with 45 Auto, N320 is hard to beat, too bad it costs so much...
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Old 01-01-2014, 00:21   #25
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For target work with 45 Auto, N320 is hard to beat, too bad it costs so much...
I like the results I've gotten with the powder, especially the clean burning, but I'm not too sure if I will buy it again. I just don't think it's worth the extra cash over Accurate, Hodgdon, or Alliant powders.
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